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•	Introduction
•	Blemishes
•	Risk Factors
•	Prevention
•	Treatment
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Skin wrinkles and blemishes

Highlights

Smoking and Skin Damage

• The skin of smokers ages more rapidly than the skin of non-smokers, even in areas of the body not exposed to sunlight, according to a 2007 study. Women in the study who smoked also had much lower levels of vitamin E secretions in their skin. Vitamin E may protect the skin from sun damage.
• There may be an association between smoking and higher frequency of a type of acne (noninflammatory acne) in adult women, according to a European study.

Antioxidants and Your Skin

• A study in the Journal of Nutrition found that a combination of antioxidants and trace elements supplementation raises the risk of skin cancer in women, but not in men.

Ultraviolet Radiation

• Overall, exposure to ultraviolet radiation from sunlight (radiation referred to as UVA or UVB) accounts for about 90% of the symptoms of premature skin aging.
• UVB primarily affects the outer skin layers. It is most intense when sunlight is brightest. People receive slightly over 70% of their yearly UVB dose during the summer.
• UVA penetrates more deeply and efficiently. The intensity of UVA rays is less dependent on the time of day and season of the year than that of UVB rays.

Vitamin D

A report analyzing studies of vitamin D supplementation found that people who take vitamin D supplements live longer than those who do not. People who avoid sunlight are at risk for vitamin D deficiency.

Introduction

As you age, your skin undergoes progressive changes:

• The cells divide more slowly, and the inner layer of skin (the dermis) starts to thin. Fat cells beneath the dermis begin to shrink. In addition, the ability of the skin to repair itself decreases with age, so wounds heal more slowly. The thinning skin becomes vulnerable to injuries and damage.
• The deeper layer of the skin, which provides scaffolding for the surface skin layers, loosens and unravels. Skin then loses its elasticity (ability to stretch). When pressed, it no longer springs back to its initial position. Instead, older skin sags and forms furrows.
• The sweat- and oil-secreting glands atrophy (waste away), leaving the skin without a protective layer of water and fat. The skin's ability to stay moisturized then decreases, and it becomes dry and scaly.
• Frown lines (those between the eyebrows) and crow's feet (lines that spread from the corners of the eyes) appear to develop because of permanent small muscle contractions. Habitual facial expressions also form characteristic lines.
• Gravity makes the situation worse, contributing to the formation of jowls and drooping eyelids. Eyebrows, surprisingly, move up as a person ages, possibly pulled up by forehead wrinkles.

Wrinkles can have a profound impact on self-esteem. The stigma attached to looking old is evidenced by the more than $12 billion Americans spend each year on cosmetics to hide the signs of aging. Our society places a premium on youthfulness, and age discrimination in the workplace, although illegal, has stalled many people's careers. Indeed, the emotional consequences of aging explain in large part why the cosmetics industry and plastic surgeons thrive.

The sun is the most important cause of prematurely aging skin (a process called photoaging) and skin cancers. Overall, exposure to ultraviolet radiation from sunlight (radiation referred to as UVA or UVB) accounts for about 90% of the symptoms of premature skin aging. Most of these effects occur by age 20:

• Even small amounts of UV radiation trigger the processes leading to skin wrinkles.
• Long-term repetitive exposure to sunlight adds up, and likely is responsible for the vast majority of unwanted consequences of aging skin, including basal cell and squamous cell cancers.
• Intense exposure to sunlight in early life is an important cause of melanoma, a particularly aggressive type of skin cancer.

Initial Damaging Effects of Sunlight. Ultraviolet radiation penetrates the layers of the skin. Both UVA and UVB rays cause damage leading to wrinkles, lower immunity against infection, aging skin disorders, and cancer. They appear to damage cells in different ways, however.

• UVB is the main cause of sunburns, and primarily affects the outer skin layers. UVB is most intense at midday when sunlight is brightest. People receive slightly over 70% of their yearly UVB dose during the summer. We receive only 28% during the remainder of the year. Window glass filters out UVB.
• UVA penetrates more deeply and efficiently. The intensity of UVA rays is less dependent on the time of day and season of the year than that of UVB rays. For example, you receive only about half of your yearly UVA dose during the summer months, with the balance spread over the rest of the year. Window glass does NOT filter out UVA.

Both UVA and UVB rays cause damage to the body, including genetic injury, wrinkles, aging skin disorders, and skin cancers. Exactly how they cause this damage is not yet fully understood.

Processes Leading to Wrinkles. Even small amounts of UV radiation trigger the processes that can cause wrinkles:

• Sunlight damages collagen fibers (the major protein that gives structure to the skin). Sunlight also causes damage to elastin, a protein in the skin that normally maintains springiness and strength of tissue beneath the skin.
• In response to this sun-induced elastin accumulation, the body produces large amounts of enzymes called metalloproteinases. One study indicated that when people with light to moderate skin color are exposed to sunlight for just 5 - 15 minutes, the metalloproteinase levels in their body remain high for about a week.
• The normal function of these metalloproteinases is generally positive -- to remodel the sun-injured tissue by producing and repairing collagen. This is an imperfect process, however, and some of metalloproteinases produced by sunlight actually degrade (break down) collagen. The result is an uneven formation (matrix) of disorganized collagen fibers called solar scars. Repetition of this imperfect skin rebuilding causes wrinkles.
• An important event in this process is the over-production of oxidants, also called free radicals. These are unstable molecules that are normally produced by chemical processes in the body, a process called oxidation. Environmental damage, however, causes an overproduction of oxidants. Excessive amounts of oxidants damage the body's cells and even alter their genetic material. Oxidation may contribute to wrinkling by activating the specific metalloproteinases that degrade connective tissue.

In addition to sunlight, other factors may hasten the formation of wrinkles:

Cigarette Smoke. Smoking produces oxygen-free radicals, which accelerate wrinkles and aging skin disorders, and increase the risk for non-melanoma skin cancers. Studies also suggest that smoking and subsequent oxidation produce higher levels of metalloproteinases, the enzymes associated with wrinkles.

Air Pollution. Ozone, a common air pollutant, may be a particular problem for the skin. One study reported that it might deplete the amount of vitamin E in the skin. This vitamin is an important antioxidant.

Rapid Weight Loss. If weight loss occurs too rapidly, the volume of fat cells that cushion the face are also decreased before chemicals in the skin can react. This not only makes a person look gaunt, but can cause the skin to sag.

Blemishes

This report covers three types of blemishes: Liver spots, purpura, and seborrheic keratoses (or warts).

Liver spots (known as lentigos, or sun-induced or pigmented lesions) are flat brown spots on the skin. They are almost universal signs of aging. Occurring most noticeably on the hands and face, these blemishes tend to enlarge and darken over time. The extent and severity of the spots are determined by a combination of skin type, sun exposure, and age. These spots are harmless, but should be distinguished from lentigo maligna, which is an early sign of melanoma.

Liver spots or age spots are a type of skin change that are associated with aging. The increased pigmentation may be brought on by exposure to sun, or other forms of ultraviolet light, or other unknown causes.

Treating Liver Spots. Liver spots do not require treatment, although some people are distressed by their appearance. Treatments may include the following:

• Trichloroacetic acid (a chemical peel).
• Tretinoin (Retin A) alone or in a combination with Mequinol (Solagé). Tretinoin is related to vitamin A, and is also effective in treating wrinkles.
• Gentle freezing with liquid nitrogen (cryotherapy).
• Laser treatment. Specific lasers, such as the Nd:YAG, are effective in eliminating 80% of liver spots in one treatment. It may be more effective than cryotherapy and have fewer side effects.
• Bleaching creams -- these are commonly available but are not as satisfactory as peels, and high concentrations can sometimes cause permanent loss of skin color.

Purpura occurs when tiny capillaries (blood vessels) break and leak blood into the skin. In older people, the condition (called senile or actinic purpura) is usually caused by fragile blood vessels. The capillaries appear as flat purplish patches. These patches are called petechiae when they are smaller than 3 mm (about a tenth of an inch). When they are greater than 3 mm, they are referred to as ecchymoses. Patients typically complain of a rash, which may appear reddish at first but gradually change color, turning brown or purple.

Treatment. Although there is no specific treatment for purpura, patients are advised to avoid trauma, including vigorous rubbing of the skin, which may be sufficient to damage the capillaries. Emollients that soften the skin may be helpful. Some doctors also recommend vitamin C, but its effectiveness is unproven.

Seborrheic keratoses, (also called seborrheic warts), are among the most common skin disorders in older adults. Their cause or causes are unknown. They usually appear on the head, neck, or trunk and can range in size from 0.2 - 3 cm (a little over an inch). They are well defined and appear to be pasted onto the skin, but their appearance can vary widely:

• They can be smooth with tiny, round, pearl-like formations embedded in them.
• They can be rough and warty.
• They can be brown or black.

Seborrheic keratoses sometimes look like melanoma, since they can have an irregular border, but they are always benign. A dermatologist can tell the difference between them, although experts warn that melanomas may "hide" among these benign lesions and go unnoticed without close inspection. In general, seborrheic keratoses have a uniform appearance while melanomas often have a smooth surface that varies in height, color density, and shading. In some cases, keratoses may cause itching or irritation. They can be easily removed with surgery or freezing. Vitamin D3 ointment is also showing promise in clinical trials.

Risk Factors

Exposure to Sun in Childhood. It is estimated that 50 - 80% of skin damage occurs in childhood and adolescence from intermittent, intense sun exposure that causes severe sunburns. In spite of this now well-known effect, many people still believe that a tan in children signifies health. And even though many parents are concerned about sun exposure, they still rely too much on sunscreen and not enough on protective clothing.

The Elderly. Most people over 70 have at least one skin disorder. Many have three or four. Everyone experiences skin changes as they age, but a long life is not the sole determinant of aging skin. Family history, genetics, and behavioral choices all have a profound impact on the onset of aging-skin symptoms.

Of all the risk factors for aging skin, exposure to UV radiation from sunlight is by far the most serious. Indeed, the vast majority of undesirable consequences of aging skin occur in individuals who are repetitively exposed to the sun, including the following:

• Outdoor workers, such as farmers, fishermen, construction workers, and lifeguards
• Outdoor enthusiasts
• Sunbathers
• People who regularly attend tanning salons or use tanning beds (One study indicated that regular use significantly increases the risk for non-melanoma skin cancers. Fair-skinned women under age 50 may be at particular risk.)

Experts have devised a classification system for skin phototypes (SPTs) based on the sensitivity to sunlight. It ranges from SPT I (lightest skin plus other factors) to IV (darkest skin). People with skin types I and II are at highest risk for photoaging skin diseases, including cancer. It should be noted, however, that premature aging from sunlight can affect people of all skin shades.

The common belief is that women are at greater risk for wrinkles than men. Some evidence suggests, however, that given the same risk factors, men and women in the same age groups have comparable risks for skin photoaging. In a French study, the evidence of moderate-to-severe photoaging was observed in the following:

• Twenty two percent of women and 17% of men ages 45 - 49
• Thirty six percent of women and 38% of men by age 54
• Nearly half of both men and women by age 60

Some studies report that men are more likely to develop non-melanoma skin cancers.

Heavy smokers are almost five times more likely to have wrinkled facial skin than nonsmokers, according to one study. The skin of smokers in areas of their bodies not exposed to sunlight also seems to age more rapidly, compared to non-smokers in the same age group, according to a 2007 study. In fact, heavy smokers in their 40s often have facial wrinkles more like those of nonsmokers in their 60s.

Studies of identical twins have found smokers to have thinner skin (in some cases by as much as 40%), more severe wrinkles, and more gray hair than their non-smoking twins. Even worse, cigarette smokers are more prone to skin cancers, including squamous cell carcinoma and giant basal cell carcinomas. A European study found an association between smoking and higher frequency of a particular type of acne in adult women. The study also found that women who smoked had much lower levels of vitamin E secretions in their skin. Vitamin E is an antioxidant that may help protect the skin from sun damage. [See In-Depth Report #41: Smoking.]

Prevention

The best long-term prevention for overly wrinkled skin is a healthy lifestyle.

Eat Healthy. A diet with plenty of whole grains, fresh fruits and vegetables, and the use of healthy oils (such as olive oil) may protect against oxidative stress in the skin. One study reported that people over age 70 years had fewer wrinkles if they ate such foods. Diet played a role in improving skin regardless of whether the people in the study smoked or lived in sunny countries. Benefits from these foods may be due to high levels of anti-oxidants found in them.

Exercise. Daily exercise keeps blood flowing, which brings oxygen to the skin. Oxygen is an important ingredient for healthy skin.

Reduce Stress. Reducing stress and tension may have benefits on the skin.

Quit Smoking. Smoking not only increases wrinkles, but smokers have a risk for squamous cell cancers that is 50% higher than nonsmokers' risk. Smokers should quit smoking to prevent many health problems, not just unhealthy skin.

The following are some daily measures for skin protection:

• Don't wash your face too often with tap water. (Once a day is enough.) It strips the skin of oil and moisture. In addition, chlorinated water, particularly at high temperatures, poses special risks for wrinkles.
• Wash your face with a mild soap that contains moisturizers. Avoid alkaline soaps, especially with deodorant.
• Pat the skin dry and immediately apply a water-based moisturizer.
• Always apply sunscreen, even if going outdoors for short periods.
• Avoid drinking alcohol within 3 hours of bedtime. Alcohol increases the risk for leaks in the capillaries, which allows more water in and causes sagging and puffiness. Capillary leakage increases when one is lying down.
• Lie on the back when sleeping. This helps offset the effects of gravity.

One of the most important ways to prevent skin damage is to avoid episodes of excessive sun exposure. The following are some specific guidelines:

• Use sunscreens that block out both UVA and UVB radiation. However, do not rely only on sunscreen for sun protection. Wear protective clothing and sunglasses in addition.
• Avoid exposure particularly from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., when sunlight pours down 80% of its daily UV dose.
• Avoid reflective surfaces, such as water, sand, concrete, and white-painted areas. Clouds and haze are not protective and in some cases may intensify UVB rays.
• Ultraviolet intensity depends on the angle of the sun, not heat or brightness. So the dangers are greater the closer to the summer-start date. For example, in the Northern Hemisphere, UV intensity in April (2 months before summer starts) is equal to that in August (2 months after summer begins).
• The higher the altitude the quicker one sunburns. One study suggested, for example, that an average complexion burns in 6 minutes at an altitude of 11,000 feet at noon, compared with 25 minutes at sea level in a temperate climate.
• Avoid sun lamps and tanning beds or salons. They provide mostly high-output UVA rays. Some experts believe that 15 - 30 minutes at a tanning salon is as dangerous as a day spent in the sun. People should not be misled by advertising claims of "safe" tanning or promotions offering unlimited tanning.

Sunscreens. The use of sunscreens is complex, and everyone should understand how and when to use them. The bottom line is not that people should avoid sunscreens or sunblocks, but that they should always use them in combination with other sun-protective measures.

Protective Clothing. Wearing sun-protective clothing is extremely important and protects even better than sunscreens. Special clothing is now available for blocking UV rays and is rated using SPF ratings or a system called the UPF (ultraviolet protection factor) index, with 50 UPF being the highest. (According to one study, this is a very reliable indicator of protection.) The clothing is expensive, however. The following are some tips for everyone:

• Adults and children should wear hats with wide brims. Even wearing a hat, however, may not be fully protective against skin cancers on the head and neck.
• People should look for loosely fitted, unbleached, tightly woven fabrics. The tighter the weave, the more protective the garment.
• Washing clothes over and over improves UPF by drawing fabrics together during shrinkage. An easy way to assess protection is simply to hold the garment up to a window or lamp and see how much light comes through. The less the better.
• Everyone over age 1 should wear sunglasses that block all UVA and UVB rays.

Chemical Tanners. Some research suggests that melanin and dihydroxyacetone (DHA), the active ingredients in many self-tanning lotions, may help filter out UVA and UVB radiation and are therefore protective against sun damage More research is underway. A preliminary study funded by the National Cancer Institute found that people who received numerous daily injections of melanotan-1 (MT-1) before going in the sun or a tanning bed tanned more quickly and showed fewer signs of sun-related damage. MT-1 is a synthetic version of the hormone melanin, which helps produce the skin's natural pigment (color).

In choosing a sunscreen, look at the ingredients. Preparations that help block UV radiation are sometimes classified as sunscreens or sunblocks, according to the substances they contain. In general, sunscreens contain organic formulas and sunblocks inorganic formulas. However, the term sunblock is used less and less as sunscreens increasingly contain both kinds of ingredients:

• Organic formulas contain UV-filtering chemicals such as octocrylene, octyl salicylate, homosalate, and octyl methoxycinnamate (block UVB), avobenzone-Parsol 1789 (blocks UVA), cinoxate, ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate (blocks UVB and small amounts of UVA), oxybenzone, benzophenone-3 (blocks UVA/UVB). People should look for a wide-spectrum sunscreen that contains combinations of these ingredients and filter both UVA and UVB. Of note: para-amino benzoic acid (PABA), once a popular ingredient, is now used infrequently. PABA may actually break down in the presence of UV exposure and release harmful oxidants. In addition, many people have an allergic reaction to it. Some products contain PABA derivatives, such as padimate O or octyl dimethyl PABA. It is not known if they have the same effects.
• The Food and Drug Administration approved Anthelios SX in July 2006. This new sunscreen prevents sunburn and protects against ultraviolet A and B rays. The product contains ecamsule, an ingredient not previously marketed in the United States.
• Inorganic formulas contain the UV-blocking pigments zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Zinc and titanium oxides lie on top of the skin and are not absorbed. They prevent nearly all UVA and UVB rays from reaching the skin. Older sunblocks are white, pasty, and unattractive, but current products use so-called microfine oxides, either zinc (Z-Cote) or titanium. They are transparent and nearly as protective as the older types. Microfine zinc oxide may be more protective and less pasty-colored than microfine titanium oxide.

Inexpensive products work as well as expensive ones with the same ingredients. Unfortunately, there are still no standards for sunscreens, and even those claiming UVA protection may offer very little. In one study, the average UVA protection from a wide range of brands was only 23%. In fact, the average protection of brands not making the claim was 37%!

Organic formulas and inorganic microfine oxides do not protect against visible light, which is a problem for people who have light-sensitive skin conditions, including actinic prurigo, porphyria, and chronic actinic dermatitis. Inorganic sunscreens that protect against visible light and are still cosmetically acceptable are now available in Europe, but not yet in the US.

Calculating the SPF. The sun protection factor (SPF) on all sunscreen labels is a ratio based on the amount of UVB (not UVA) radiation required to turn sunscreen- or sunblock-treated skin red compared to non-treated skin. For instance, people who sunburn in 5 minutes and who want to stay in the sun for 150 minutes might use an SPF 30. The formula would be: 30 (the SPF number) times 5 (minutes to burn) = 150 minutes in the sun.

Protection offered by sunscreens may be classified as follows:

• Minimal: SPF 2 to 11.
• Moderate: SPF 12 through 29.
• High: 30+. (Although some sunscreens claim SPFs higher than 30, the added protection at such higher levels is insignificant.)

SPF Levels by Age Group. Certain groups should have higher or lower SPFs depending on age and other factors:

• Although sunscreens are safe in most toddlers and children, they should not be the first and only lines of defense. In fact, experts are worrying that by relying too much on sunscreen and not providing other protective measures, parents may actually be increasing their children's risk for melanoma. All young children should be well covered with clothing, sunglasses, and hats as the first line of defense against sunburn. Children should be kept out of the sun during peak sunlight periods. Sunscreens should not be used on babies younger than 6 months without consulting a doctor.
• Older children and adults (even those with darker skin) benefit from using SPFs of 15 and over. Some experts recommend that most people should use SPF 30 on the face and 15 on the body.
• Adults who burn easily instead of tanning and anyone with risk factors for skin cancer should use at least SPF 30.

Timing and Amount of Application. You should apply sunscreen or sunblock liberally as follows:

• Adults should include sunscreen with a daily skin regimen, even if going outdoors for only a short time.
• Apply a large amount to all exposed areas, including ears and feet. To achieve protection as indicated by the sunscreen's SPF, experts recommend half a teaspoon each for the head, neck, and each arm and a teaspoon each for the chest area, the back, and each leg.
• Apply initially 30 minutes before venturing outdoors for best results. (This allows time for the sunscreen to be absorbed. Then reapply every 15 - 30 minutes while being in the sunlight.
• Also reapply each time after exercise or swimming. (Choose a waterproof or water-resistant formula even if activities don't include swimming. Waterproof formulas last for about 40 minutes in the water, whereas water-resistant formulas last half as long.)
• Insect repellents reduce sunscreen SPFs by up to one-third. Use higher SPFs and very liberal application when applying both.

Possible Hazards of Sunscreens, Sun Avoidance, or Both. When used generously and appropriately, sunscreen products and sun avoidance help reduce the severity of many aging skin disorders, including squamous cell cancers. There are certain concerns, however.

Sunscreen Use May Not Protect Against Basal Cell and Melanoma Cancers and May Even Increase the Risk. Although sunscreens help prevent squamous cell carcinomas and other skin disorders, sunscreens do not appear to provide protection against melanoma and some basal cell cancers. In fact, some studies have reported a higher association with sunscreen use and these skin malignancies, though not all studies report such negative results.

The reasons for this possible increased risk are unclear, though some theories include the following:

• Until recently, many sunscreens blocked only or mostly UVB rays and not UVA, the more deeply penetrating rays now known to be especially dangerous. Past studies may not have reflected the effects of the broad-spectrum sunscreens now available, which block both UVA and UVB.
• People who apply sunscreens may feel safe and stay out longer during high sun-exposure hours than is safe. Even if a person doesn't sunburn, UVA rays can still penetrate the skin and do harm.
• People may not put on enough sunscreen. According to a 2002 study, people generally apply only 20 - 60% of the recommended amount, which can provide significantly less protection than the given SPF. (Of note, a 2003 study reported that when applied at the recommended amount, a broad-screen sunscreen prevents DNA damage from UV exposure. However, omitting it even once resulted in significant cell injury.)

Sunscreen Use May Increase the Risk for Health Problems Related to Sunlight Deficiencies. There is some major concern that underexposure to sunlight, due to the use of sunscreens or sun-avoidance measures, may produce other health problems, such as the following:

• Vitamin D Deficiency. Vitamin D is found in only a few foods, such as fortified dairy products and fish, but it is produced in the skin in response to UVB sunlight. A medical literature review published in the journal Nutrition and Cancer reported that UVB rays may outshine dietary supplements for building the body's vitamin D reserves. Without an appropriate mix of diet and supplements, vigorous sun protection measures may increase a person's risk for developing vitamin D deficiency. Vitamin D is important for prevention of rickets, osteoporosis, and some cancers, including melanoma. People who need to avoid sunlight and whose diet is low in foods that contain vitamin D should check with their doctor about taking supplements. People with darker skin are at higher risk for deficiencies from sun protection than those with whiter skin. Note: vitamin D is toxic in high doses. Most doctors recommend 200 IU a day (for young adults) to 600 IU a day (above age 70). Doses up to 2,000 IU a day are considered safe. A report analyzing studies of vitamin D supplementation found that people who take vitamin D supplements live longer than those who do not. The researchers looked at 18 studies. They found that participants who received vitamin D supplements were, on average, 7% less likely to die during the study they were in, compared with those receiving "sugar pills."
• Other Cancers. Although sunlight is implicated in skin cancers, it is also associated with lower risks for breast, prostate, ovarian, and colon cancers. Some protection against these cancers may be related to vitamin D production by sunlight.
• Depression. Many people suffer from SAD (seasonal affective disorder), a form of depression that generally occurs in winter and is associated with exposure to less sunlight.

The bottom line is that some sunlight is important and even necessary for a healthful and high-quality life. Adults may benefit from daily moderate tanning (20 - 30 maximum minutes of exposure during lower-risk hours) over several days to slowly build up pigment in the skin.

Treatment

An increasing number of dermatology patients are looking for a way to improve the appearance of their skin. As a result, more and more products have become available to treat skin wrinkles and blemishes. From vitamins and supplements to exfoliants and chemical peels -- the options can be overwhelming. In some cases, more than one approach may be needed.

Antioxidants are substances that hunt oxygen-free radicals, the unstable particles that can damage cells. Free radicals may also cause sun damage and even skin cancers. Exposure to sunlight depletes antioxidants in the skin, and therefore they must be replaced.

Antioxidant ointments, creams, and lotions ("topical products") may help reduce the risk of wrinkles and protect against sun damage. Unlike sunscreens, they build up in the skin and are not washed away, so the protection may last. Selenium, coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10), and alpha-lipoic acid are types of antioxidants that come in topical form. Many are proving to be very beneficial for the skin.

Vitamin A. Vitamin A is important for skin health. UV radiation produces vitamin A deficiencies in the skin. Topical products containing natural forms of vitamin A (retinol, retinaldehyde) or vitamin A-related products called retinoids (tretinoin, tazarotene) may help repair skin damage due to sunburn and natural aging.

• Tretinoin (Retin-A). Tretinoin (known commercially as Retin-A) is the only topical agent approved for treating photoaging and is available in prescription form (Avita, Renova, Differin). The June 2004 issue of Dermatology Surgery reported that tretinoin (0.25% concentration) was an effective and well-tolerated treatment for photodamaged facial skin. This drug produces a rosy glow and reduces fine and large wrinkles, liver spots, and surface roughness. It also may help prevent more serious effects of ultraviolet radiation. Patients may apply tretinoin to the face, neck, chest, hands, and forearms, and should do so at least twice a week. Noticeable improvement takes 2 - 6 months. Because Retin-A increases a person's sensitivity to the sun, patients should apply just a tiny amount at bedtime, and wear sunblock during the day. Patients should also avoid overexposure to the sun. Almost all patients experience redness, scaling, burning, and itching after 2 or 3 days that can last up to 3 months. In women who experience irritation, a daytime moisturizer or low-dose corticosteroid cream, such as 1% hydrocortisone, may help. There is some concern that overuse of high-dose tretinoin may cause excessive skin thinness over time. Studies now suggest that low concentrations (as low as .02%) of tretinoin can produce significant improvements in wrinkles and skin color, with less irritation than the higher doses.
• Retinol. Retinol, a natural form of vitamin A, could not, until recently, be used in skin products because it was unstable and easily broken down by UV radiation. Stable preparations are now sold over the counter. In the right concentrations, retinol may be as effective as tretinoin, and studies indicate that it has fewer side effects. An animal study suggests that adding antioxidant creams (such as those containing vitamins C or E) may offer added protection against degradation of retinol, but not tretinoin. The Food and Drug Administration warns that over-the-counter retinol skin products are unregulated. The amount of active ingredients is unknown, and some preparations, in fact, may contain almost no retinol.
• Tazarotene. Tazarotene (Tazorac, Zorac, Avage) is a retinoid used for acne and psoriasis. It has now been approved for treating wrinkles, skin discoloration, and blemishes due to photoaging. One short-term study suggested that it may be as effective as tretinoin and even slightly better at high doses. At such high doses, however, it can cause very severe irritation. Redness and peeling may be reduced by administering tretinoin first to get the skin acclimated. A randomized study of 562 patients with facial photodamage found that a daily application of tazarotene 0.1% cream resulted in a minimum 1 grade improvement in fine and coarse wrinkling, uneven skin color, pore size, skin roughness, and overall photodamage. More research is needed to determine if it produces any long-lasting significant benefits.

Warning: Pregnant women and those who may become pregnant should avoid any vitamin A derivative (a product related to vitamin A). For example, oral tretinoin causes birth defects, and women should avoid even topical Retin-A when pregnant or trying to conceive.

Vitamin C. Vitamin C, or ascorbic acid, is a very potent antioxidant. Most studies on the effects of antioxidants on the skin have used this vitamin. In laboratory studies, large amounts of vitamin C reduced skin swelling and protected immune factors from sunlight. It may even promote collagen production. Vitamin C by itself is unstable, but products that solve the delivery problem are now available (such as Cellex-C, Avon's Anew Formula C Treatment Capsules, Physician Elite, and others). More research is needed.

Antioxidants Under Investigation for Skin Care. Other antioxidants are also being investigated for their value in skin protection. Most available brands, however, contain very low concentrations of these antioxidants. In addition, they are also not well absorbed and have a short-term effect. New delivery techniques, however, may prove to offset some of these problems.

• Vitamin E. Studies suggest that topical vitamin E, particularly alpha tocopherol cream (a form of vitamin E), decreased skin roughness, length of facial lines, and wrinkle depth. Studies on mice have also reported reductions in UV-induced skin cancer with its use.
• Both green and black tea may provide some protection against skin cancers and photoaging. There is also some evidence that pomegranate and soy extracts may help rejuvenate aging skin.
• Aloe, ginger, grape seed extract, and coral extracts contain antioxidants and are promoted as being healthy for the skin, although evidence of their effects on wrinkles is weak.

A small study found that taking vitamin C and E supplements by mouth -- at the same time -- may help reduce sunburn, although it doesn't work as well as sunscreen. Taking the vitamins separately did not have any effect. Vitamin C and E are also antioxidants.

One of the basic methods for improving skin and eliminating small wrinkles is exfoliation (also called resurfacing), which is the removal of the top layer of skin to allow regrowth of new skin. Methods for doing this run from simple scrubs to special creams to intensive peeling treatments, including laser resurfacing. People with darker skin are at particularly higher risk for scarring or discoloration with the more powerful exfoliation methods.

Abrasive Scrubs. Scrub gently with a mildly abrasive material and a soap that contains salicylic acid to remove old skin so that new skin can grow. The motion should be perpendicular to the wrinkles. Use textured material or cleansing grains with microbeads. Organic materials, such as loofahs or sea sponges, may harbor bacteria. Avoid cleansing grains that contain pulverized walnut shells and apricot seeds, which can scratch skin on a microscopic level. Cleansing grains with microbeads don't have sharp edges and remove skin without cutting it. Exfoliation using scrubs, however, can worsen certain conditions, such as acne, sensitive skin, or broken blood vessels.

Topical Alpha Hydroxy Acid and Similar Substances. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) ease the shedding of dead skin cells and may even stimulate the production of collagen and elastin. Their natural forms are:

• Lactic acid (milk)
• Glycolic acid (sugar cane)
• Malic acid (found in apples and pears)
• Citric acid (oranges and lemons)
• Tartaric acids (grapes)

Most alpha hydroxy acid products contain glycolic acid. Skin care products are also made from polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). Research suggests that PHA products may cause less skin irritation than AHA or BHA products.

Acid concentrations in over-the-counter AHA preparations are 2 - 10%. One clinical study suggested that 8% concentrations showed modest skin improvement Some examples include Avon's Anew Intensive Treatment (8% glycolic), Pond's Age Defying Complex (8%), Elizabeth Arden's Alpha-Ceramid Intensive Skin Treatment (3 - 7.5%), and BioMedic's home product (10%). Prescription strength creams contain at least 12% glycolic acid, and glycolic acid peels of 30 - 70% concentration may be administered in a doctor's office at weekly or monthly intervals.

Response to AHA varies, and the treatment is not without risk, particularly in high-concentration products. Side effects from over-the-counter creams, prescription products, and professional AHA peels can include burns, itching, pain, and possibly scarring. Studies also suggest that AHA may increase susceptibility to sun damage, even at concentrations as low as 4%. Such effects can persist up to a week after a person stops using the product. Experts advise that people purchase products with AHA concentrations of 10% or less. Chemical peels of up to 60% are available without prescription on the Internet. Such concentrations are not recommended, except under a doctor's supervision. If any adverse effects occur, stop using the product immediately. Always avoid sunlight or use proper sun protection when using these products.

Copper Peptides. Certain copper-containing compounds may protect skin and help repair it. Note: copper is a toxic metal. When using products containing copper, buy only those that contain peptides (small protein fragments) that bind to copper. Most studies have been conducted on the copper peptide glycyl-l-histidyl-l-lysine:copper (II) or GHK-Cu. It is currently used in a number of products (such as CP Serum, Neutrogena's Visibly Firm, ProCyte's Neova).

Furfuryladenine. Furfuryladenine (Kinetin, Kinerase) is a naturally occurring growth hormone found in plant and animal DNA. It has antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Some small laboratory studies suggest that furfuryladenine may delay the onset and decrease the effects of aging on skin. However, there are no well-conducted human studies to support this suggestion.

Vitamin K. Microsponge-based vitamin K is said to clear bruises spider veins, and other small blood vessel damage. Vitamin K is important for blood clotting.

Moisturizers help prevent dryness, bruising, and tearing. They have no effect on wrinkles by themselves. Moisturizers should be applied while the skin is still damp. These products retain skin moisture in various ways:

• Occlusives, such as petroleum jelly, prevent water from evaporating.
• Humectants, including glycerin, act by pulling water up to the surface of the skin from deep tissues. People with oily skin generally should use the humectant type.
• More powerful compounds, such as monolaurin (Glylorin), contain mixtures of fatty molecules (lipids), which may help restore the skin's natural barriers against moisture loss and damage.

Most moisturizers contain combinations of these compounds. They usually have other ingredients as well, such as alpha hydroxy acids, sunscreens, collagen, and keratin. Collagen and keratin leave a protein film and temporarily stretch the skin. They range widely in price, and a major consumer organization found little difference in general between the more and less expensive products.

The skin under the eyes is very thin and does not produce as much of the protective oils that keep skin soft and supple. Manufacturers market their under-eye gels as being able to reduce puffiness and dark circles. The creams typically work in one of two ways:

• By temporarily constricting blood vessels to prevent the build-up of fluids
• By firming the skin with an invisible film

Never rub the creams under the eyes, as this may cause more wrinkles to form. Instead, apply these products with a light tapping motion to stimulate the skin.

Cosmetics, if properly applied, can be surprisingly effective in camouflaging the signs of aging skin, including wrinkles and age spots. Moreover, they offer additional benefits by retarding water loss and providing a physical barrier to UV radiation. However, as women age, less is more.

Here are some suggestions for older women:

Moisturizers. Apply moisturizers before foundation. If reddish discoloration is extensive or the skin is sallow, tinted moisturizers may be helpful and can be worn alone or under foundation.

Foundations. Caking on make-up will cause cracks at the wrinkle lines and only increase the appearance of aging. Try to cover large areas of the face with a moderate-coverage foundation that has a matte or semi-matte finish. Facial powder reflects light and thus minimizes wrinkles, but people with dry skin should avoid it.

Correcting Color. When blemishes are especially prominent, applying color correctors under the foundation can be very effective:

• Green neutralizers mask red lesions.
• Yellow will camouflage dark circles and bruises.
• Mauve (a purplish-pink color) helps neutralize sallow skin or yellowish blemishes.
• A white, pearled base helps to minimize wrinkles.

Blushes. Blushes and color washes can help conceal the spidery network of dilated capillaries on the nose and cheeks. Powder blushes are preferred because they blend easily on top of foundation.

Eyes. Powder eye shadows applied on top of a moisturizer are better than cream-based shadows. Light-colored shadow, applied along the upper eyelid crease and above the iris (the colored part of the eye) is best for offsetting the appearance of deep-set eyes. You should then apply a slightly deeper shade of the same color to the lower part of the eyelid, and draw it out to the corner.

Lips. A lip-setting cream or facial foundation should be applied before lipstick to help prevent it from bleeding into surrounding wrinkles. Try using a stiff bristle brush instead of a lip pencil. The brush will help keep the lipstick on and prevent bleeding. (Some women use the pencil itself for the full lip, which gives color but appears natural.) Some make-up artists recommend cream lipsticks instead of matte.

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not regulate herbal remedies and dietary supplements. In other words, the manufacturers and distributors of such products do not need FDA approval to sell their products. In addition, any substance that affects the body's chemistry can, like any drug, produce side effects that may be harmful. There have been numerous reported cases of serious and even deadly side effects from herbal products.

Overexposure to sunlight can damage skin. The following natural remedies may cause extra sensitivity to light (photosensitivity):

• St. John's wort (Hypericum perforatum) is a popular herbal remedy for depression. People who are sensitive to light should not use it. A case report suggests that St. John's wort may cause skin reactions in patients who have laser treatment.
• Kava (Piper methysticum) is an herb used to calm nerves and reduce stress. In addition to photosensitivity, it can cause liver damage.
• Yohimbe (Pausinystalia yohimbe) is used to treat erectile dysfunction. Both the herb and the pharmaceutical drug (yohimbine) can cause sensitivity to light.
• Essential oils in many botanical aromatherapy products can trigger photosensitivity. Avoid citrus oils (grapefruit, lemon, lime, and orange) as well as bergamot, cumin, ginger, and angelica root oils.

Resurfacing Treatments

There are many choices for skin resurfacing (also called exfoliation), and the patient must consider several different factors that affect the choice. Resurfacing can achieve the following:

• Removal of abnormal tissue and rough skin
• Stimulation of new skin growth
• Stimulation of collagen and elastin production

In addition to determining the skill of the surgeon and the safety of the procedure, the patient must discuss the desired depth of the resurfacing and the capability of each procedure to reach this depth safely. All resurfacing procedures require a healing period afterward, during which the skin is red and sensitive. The deeper the procedure, the higher the risk for complications, including delayed healing, infection, loss of pigment (skin color), and scarring.

If you make the decision to pursue intensive treatments, consider the following factors, among others, and discuss them with your dermatologist or plastic surgeon:

• The ability of the procedure to safely reduce wrinkles
• The ease and safety record of the procedure
• The skill of the doctor
• The length of recovery
• Possible complications
• How long the benefits will last

A person's age also helps determine the procedure:

• For people in their 30s, a simple chemical peel is sufficient.
• After age 40, people may benefit from collagen or fat implants.
• At age 50 and over, plastic surgeons recommend laser resurfacing and customized treatments for individual needs.

In older individuals, combination procedures may be beneficial. Some examples include the following:

• Laser surgery may be used for deep lines (such as those around the mouth) and chemical peels used over the rest of the face.
• For enhancing the eye by correcting droopy eyelids, bags, and a "sinking" brow, combinations of eyelift (blepharoplasty), Botox, and laser resurfacing may be used.

Chemical peels, also known as chemosurgery, help restore wrinkled, lightly scarred, or blemished facial skin. Much like chemical paint strippers, chemical peels strip off the top layers of skin, and new, younger-looking skin grows back. The procedure is very effective for the upper lip but cannot be performed around the eyes. Partial peels are often done in conjunction with a face-lift. Combinations of the topical antioxidants, such as tretinoin and vitamin C, along with a chemical peel, may be particularly effective.

The Procedure.

• A dermatologist applies chemicals to the skin. They include trichloroacetic acid, high concentrations of alpha hydroxy or beta hydroxy acids, or combinations of all three.
• In some cases, tretinoin or alpha hydroxy is applied 4 - 6 weeks before, and starting one day after, the peel. Such treatments can enhance the effects of a peel and reduce the risk of discoloration in people at risk for this complication. Tretinoin is being tested as a chemical peel.
• A crust or scab generally forms within 24 hours after surgery. You can remove this scab by gently cleansing with soap and water.
• The skin takes 6 - 7 days to heal.
• After the scab disappears, the visible skin is deep red but gradually lightens as it regenerates.

Complications. Complications include white heads, cold sores, infection, scarring, numbness, and permanent discoloration, particularly in people with darker skin. Refinement of chemical peel techniques are now permitting doctors to reach deeper skin, improvements which make it easier to apply peels to non-facial skin and to individuals with darker skin.

Dermabrasion affects deeper layers of skin than chemical peels, and may be useful for removing disfiguring marks, such as deep acne scars or deep wrinkles. As with chemical peels, it is effective for wrinkles on the upper lip and chin, and cannot be used around the eyes. Some doctors prefer dermabrasion to lasers for skin surfacing of people with darker skin colors.

Standard Dermabrasion. Standard dermabrasion uses a rotating brush that removes the top layers of a person's skin. As with chemical peels, dermabrasion selectively strips away the upper layers of skin, leaving the underlying skin layers exposed. Similar to chemical peels, after the procedure, the treated skin oozes and forms a scab, a reaction that looks and feels uncomfortable, but only temporary. Postoperative care is similar for both procedures.

Microdermabrasion. A gentler variation called microdermabrasion uses very tiny crystals to polish the skin and a vacuum technique to remove them. It has largely replaced the older dermabrasion, and, in fact, was the fourth most common non-surgical cosmetic procedure performed in 2005, with over a million done. Results are similar to light chemical peels. Patients can have this procedure done on their lunch hour and return to work. Only mild redness occurs after treatment, although for best results five or six repetitive treatments are needed every 1 - 2 weeks. To date, overall patient satisfaction has been very high.

Lasers are currently the most effective exfoliation tools for eliminating wrinkles. Their unique advantages over other resurfacing methods are their ability to tighten the skin. A successful procedure can make patients look 10 - 20 years younger, and the results can last up to 10 years.

The procedure is most beneficial for the following areas:

• It is best around the mouth and eyes. Recent evidence suggests CO₂ lasers may be even better than dermabrasion for the upper lip.
• It is slightly less beneficial for the area around the nose.

Used alone, current laser therapy does not eliminate crow's feet, broken blood vessels, or dark circles under the eye. The evidence of the effects of lasers on acne scars is incomplete.

Standard laser dermabrasion is too harsh for thinner skin layers, such as on the neck. Newer and gentler laser techniques, however, stimulate collagen without removing skin layers, and may prove to be useful for necklines.

The Laser Resurfacing Procedure. In general the procedure works in the following way:

• Laser pulses penetrate the skin quickly, vaporizing water and surface skin without damaging the deeper layers, allowing new top skin to grow.
• In addition, the laser delivers enough heat to shorten collagen fibers, restoring some elasticity to the skin.

Choice of Lasers. The lasers used depend on skin type and severity of the condition. Some of the more common laser types are:

• The carbon dioxide (CO₂) laser. This is the most powerful laser treatment and is used for deep wrinkles and skin imperfections. People who have had silicone injections should not have CO₂ procedures, which can burn and scar the skin over the implanted area.
• The erbium: YAG (Er:YAG). This laser is gentler than the CO₂ laser, and is effective for mild wrinkles and for providing a smooth skin texture. It has a shorter recovery time. Some experts have even found the YAG laser as effective in removing deep wrinkles as CO₂ when used to sufficient depth. A variable pulse YAG laser can shift between pulses that destroy skin tissue to those that heat the skin. This process effectively resurfaces the skin with fewer side effects than CO₂ laser therapy.
• Pulsed dye laser. Pulsed dye laser uses yellow light, which is easily absorbed by hemoglobin, the molecule that gives blood its red color. Pulsed dye laser treatments are used to treat skin blemishes that are due to blood vessel abnormalities, such as port-wine stains.

A gentle laser procedure called non-ablative laser resurfacing (NLite), also called photorejuvenation, is now approved for the treatment of all facial wrinkles. The procedure uses light energy to gently stimulate new collagen, and possibly elastin production, without removing the skin tissue itself. Its effects are less pronounced than those of other laser procedures. However, because it does not injure the external layers of skin, it can be used on delicate skin areas, such as the neck and around the eyes. It also causes very little irritation afterward.

Some surgeons are using combination techniques that employ more than one laser technology in one session, to achieve different effects. For example, one combination technique uses CO₂, YAG, pulsed-dye laser, and one other laser technology to both improve wrinkles and clear under-eye dark circles and acne scarring. Pretreatment with botulinum (Botox) injections before laser resurfacing significantly improved the treatment of crow's feet in one study.

Post-Procedure Recovery. The procedure itself is relatively painless, but the redness and irritation that occur during the healing process can be severe. Non-ablative laser resurfacing does not have the same severe after-effects as other laser treatments. For 8 - 9 days, the face looks skinned and swollen, and requires continuous moisturizing. Some doctors suggest that people with very sensitive skin, who cannot tolerate the necessary medications and lubricants, should avoid laser resurfacing. Redness and sensitivity can persist for 1 - 4 months. The patient must stay out of the sun as much as possible during this time, and should always avoid sunbathing and damaging their skin again. Early research suggests that silicone dressings may reduce post-procedure pain and crusting.

Complications. Scarring and infections can occur in about 1% of procedures. The risk of complications depends on the experience of the surgeon. People with a history of herpes simplex may experience flare-ups of fever, facial pain, and flu-like symptoms for 5 or 6 days after the procedure. In addition, people with darker skin may wish to avoid the procedure, because it can cause unpredictable and dramatic lightening of the skin.

A new skin rejuvenation technology, called Plasma Skin Resurfacing, or Portrait Plasma, was introduced in February 2005. The technology uses plasma energy (heat and light energy) to rejuvenate the skin from the deeper layers outwards. While new skin regenerates, the outer layers of the skin act as a natural bandage. When the outer layers peel off in the week after treatment, the new skin emerges. The process prevents or minimizes the raw appearance that follows laser treatments. This system uses radio waves to "excite" nitrogen gas, resulting in the release of energy. According to the manufacturer, skin regeneration using the Portrait Plasma system is rapid, and satisfaction with the procedure appears high. Long-term follow-up studies are not available yet for this new method. In 2006, the Food and Drug Administration approved this method for the treatment of wrinkles on other areas of the body, besides the face.

Cold Ablation. Cold ablation, called coblation for short, delivers saline (salt water) to the skin, through which a cool electric current is passed. A subsequent reaction heats and vaporizes the top shallow layer of skin. The procedure is very specific and appears to minimize any damage to other areas of the skin.

Radiofrequency Resurfacing. A promising technique uses low radiowave energy to resurface the skin. Preliminary research indicates that this procedure may eventually be as effective as laser surgery in reducing severe wrinkles around the eyes and mouth, with minimal pain and a shorter recovery time. In one study, one radiofrequency treatment with only a skin anesthetic resulted in tighter facial skin for 14 out of 15 patients within 12 weeks. All but one patient returned to normal activity immediately afterward. A small clinical trial published in Dermatology Surgery found that a noninvasive radiofrequency technique called NARF safely and effectively improved drooping lower eyelids.

Intense Pulsed Light. Intense pulsed light (IPL) uses filters to deliver different wavelengths of light. Doctors use it to treat a number of photoaging skin problems, and it appears to have long-term effects. Typically, four to six treatments are performed over a four-month period. Each treatment takes 15 - 20 minutes. Unlike laser light, which uses one color wavelength (such as green or red), intense pulsed light starts with a full spectrum of light. It then allows the doctor to selectively block off specific wavelengths, depending on how shallow or deep the procedure should go. IPL machines are less expensive and safer than lasers.

Implant Procedures

Implants, also called injectable fillers, are becoming a common means of erasing wrinkles and folds. Several materials are being used for deep wrinkles, depression under the eyes, lip enhancements, and acne scars.

After being banned from the market in 1992, silicone is making a comeback in research settings as a potential permanent wrinkle eraser. Scientists are looking into a new microdroplet technique (the use of very small drops) combined with purified silicone as a way to eliminate any danger. The past problems with silicone occurred when it was mixed with a foreign substance, like mineral oil, or when it was injected in large doses.

Most implants to date, however, are not completely satisfactory. Collagen implants and biologic fillers from animal, bacterial, or human sources do not provide long-lasting benefits. Synthetic fillers are permanent but may cause an allergic reaction, which can lead to chronic problems. Such reactions are rare, but they can be painful and unattractive.

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved the Juvéderm product line in June 2006. Juvéderm is an injectable treatment of moderate-to-severe facial wrinkles and folds. Juvéderm products are gels made from hyaluronic acid. They are injected into the face. Doctors report good results after a single treatment with Juvéderm, and the results last for at least 6 months.

The popularity of Botox injections has skyrocketed in the United States. Between 2004 and 2005, the number of procedures performed jumped 16 percent. Botox injection was the number one non-surgical cosmetic procedure in 2005, with more than 3.2 million injections. Botulinum, the deadly toxin found in uncooked foods, is also a powerful muscle-relaxant. Tiny amounts of a purified form (Botox) are injected into wrinkles to relax the surrounding muscles. It may benefit forehead and frown lines, crow's feet, lower eyelids, lines on the side of the nose, and the area between the upper lip and the nose. It is also useful for treating involuntary muscle movements that can occur after a face-lift.

The injections need to be repeated every few months, since the effects wear off. The treatment decreases the ability to frown or squint and may cause the corners of the mouth to turn down. When used for areas around eyes, it produces a rounder appearance afterward, which patients should be aware of before they undertake the procedure.

The drug does not cross the blood-brain barrier, and, to date, the only side effects are temporary muscle weakness near the injection site. Although there have been some reports that Botox can reduce migraine and tension headaches, Botox also causes headaches in about 1% of cases. In some cases, the headaches can be very severe and long lasting (from 8 days to a month). Some researchers suggest that either a contaminated batch of Botox or a specific injection technique may be the cause, but additional investigation is needed.

Plastic Surgery

In 2005, there were over 2.1 million cosmetic surgeries, up 1% from the year before. Most of these surgeries were liposuction and breast surgeries. However, over 200,000 each of eyelid and nose surgeries were performed. Facial plastic surgeries range from being fairly minimal, such as a brow lift, to a full face-lift.

Several face-lift procedures (called rhytidectomies) are available. Face-lifts can provide individuals with a more youthful look. The degree of improvement, however, depends on many factors, including age, bone structure, skin type, and personal habits, such as smoking and sunbathing.

The Procedure. When a face-lift is a relatively simple procedure, it can take about 2 hours under local anesthetic in a doctor's office. Complicated face-lifts are done under general anesthesia in a hospital and can take 3 - 6 hours. The face-lift procedure may be one of the following:

• Superficial musculoaponeurotic system (SMAS) is the most common face-lift procedure. The surgeon makes an incision at the hairline and separates the skin from the underlying tissue and muscles. The muscles are tightened and excess fat and tissue, such as fat under the chin and neck, are removed.
• The endoscopic subperiosteal or subgaleal face-lift is a less invasive surgical technique. The surgeon raises facial structures rather than cutting away flaps of skin. Only a few half-inch incisions are made, and scarring is minimal. Not all individuals are candidates for this procedure, however.

Neither SMAS nor the endoscopic version is effective for the middle part of the face, particularly the deep lines (naso-labial folds) that run down from the nose beside the mouth. Some time after the SMAS face-lift, the upper face begins to age again while the lower area keeps its shape, causing the face to look imbalanced. Researchers are looking at other approaches, such as one called composite face-lift, that lift most muscles in the face.

Recovery Process. Recovery normally lasts from several weeks to several months. Swelling and discoloration are common. Some patients report tingling or numbing sensations after surgery. These sensations generally decrease as damaged nerves regenerate.

Complications. A face-lift is not without risks. A postsurgical hematoma is a collection of blood that can occur after a face-lift. In one study, major hematomas occurred in 2.2% of patients and minor hematomas in 6.65% of patients. They generally develop within 2 weeks of the surgery and require draining. Even minor hematomas need fast treatment to prevent greater complications. Such complications can include infection, changes in skin color, fluid buildup, and prolonged recovery time.

Other less common complications may include the following:

• Infection
• Excessive bleeding
• Imbalanced facial muscles
• Delayed healing
• Scarring
• Permanent injury to the nerves that control facial movements

These complications are rare, particularly with a skilled surgeon, but the more complex the face-lifts, the greater the risk.

Blepharoplasty. Blepharoplasty is the primary surgical procedure for eye lifts. Results usually last 5 -10 years. Although simple, it has potential complications, including permanent difficulty in closing the eyes or making a stern expression. Newer techniques, however, are preventing this complication. Assuming the surgeon is experienced, laser surgery is now preferred to the standard surgical scalpel approach. Laser surgery reduces bleeding and bruising, and both the operation and recovery are faster. Temporary blurred or double vision is common. More serious complications include infection, bleeding, dry eyes, difficulty in closing the eyes, and pulling down of the lower lids. Rare cases of blindness have been reported.

Transconjunctival Upper Blepharoplasty. An innovative procedure called transconjunctival upper blepharoplasty removes fat from the membrane that lines the eyelids (the conjunctiva) and is an effective technique for treating both the upper and lower eyelids. Unlike traditional blepharoplasty, this procedure does not cause scarring in the nasal area. In patients who have scars from previous surgeries, transconjunctival removal of fat can also make existing scars less obvious. Long-term side effects and effectiveness of this procedure have not been studied.

Laser Liposculpture and Platysma Resurfacing. A procedure called laser neck and jowl liposculpture and platysma resurfacing may prove to be an alternative to face-lifts. The procedure requires only a one-inch incision under the chin and removing excess fat. After the fat is removed, the surgeon tightens the platysma, the thin muscular sheet under the skin of the neck, which improves the shape of the neck. Only local anesthetic is needed, and the patient can return to normal activities in 2 days. The patient's skin should be elastic enough to be able to reform without sagging.

Resources

• www.aad.org -- American Academy of Dermatology
• www.asds.net -- American Society for Dermatologic Surgery
• www.plasticsurgery.org -- American Society of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgeons
• www.surgery.org -- American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery
• www.skincarephysicians.com/agingskinnet -- Aging Skin Net

References

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